In Japan, attending a public bathhouse is an everyday experience for many people. The cost of rental accommodation is very high in much of Tokyo, so growing numbers of people choose to live in apartments with rudimentary bathrooms or only a toilet. For 250 Yen they can enjoy a clean, multi bath facility (Sento) with showers, complimentery shavers and soap. So relaxing is the experience that it's no wonder that given the opportunity, an open air bath in a beautiful natural setting is a favoured weekend break or relaxing holiday choice.
Before world war two when Japan had high barriers to entry and global tourism wasn't so common or popular, it has been suggested that many of the onsens in Japan were open to both women and men, or 'Konyoku' in Japanese. From a western perspective, mixed bathing has the connotation of eroticism, yet from accounts I've read this was not the case. In the agrarian days of Japanese past, the ritual of daily cleansing was taken seriously and nudity did not proclaim immodesty. For time immemorial the rich minerals of Japan's volcanic onsen have been celebrated and famed for everything from improving health, to assisting one's pursuit of eternal life.
A western sense of taboo in regards to mixed bathing spread like wildfire across Japan when the American GI's occupied the island. The Americans brought with them cultural lessons that echo Adam and Eve's fig leaf experience, and once the Japanese people realised they were naked, bathing became a largely segregated affair.
Today, in order to enjoy an outdoor bath with your opposite sex partner, you need to book a private bath in a resort-like hotel. There are good and bad hotels providing such opportunities. Many of them sprung up in Japan's bubble era and have gauche decadence that has lost its shine. Some of them are incredible ryokans with impeccable service, food and amenities at a princely cost. Then there are true disappointments, grey walled concrete mansions that lack soul and substance.
However, there is another way.
For those willing to take a less well worn path, and for those who have a sense of adventure, naturally occurring hot springs do exist. To find these, research must be conducted by means of local scouting, rumour, maps and the trusty GPS navigator. When discovered, they are reward enough in themselves for the hard work it takes to locate them.
Generally in beautiful surrounds, one is allowed the peace and quiet to soak in unfiltered mineral waters without busloads of tourists or tarnished gold fittings. You won't find a slip-and-slide with this kind of bath experience, but you might have the opportunity to meet some local wildlife.
Previously, we traveled around Hokkaido, and discovered some truly wonderful onsen. One nestled onto the edge of a lake and had softly rounded rocks that were cushioned with moss. One perched in the ocean with a view of Russian islands from the shore. With a few such wonderful experiences under our belts, we have an ambitious itinerary that covers two months of hiking in the mountains and soaking in the onsens. I hope you enjoy following us on our journey.
