Mt Ontake, Gifu/Nagano

Standing at 3067 metres, Mt Ontake (on the border of Gifu and Nagano prefectures) is one of Japan’s seven sacred mountains and the second highest volcano in Japan after Mt Fuji. It is a beautiful, challenging and rewarding climb.

On a clear day, the views from both Hida no Chojo (Hida Summit) near “Go No Ike” (The fifth pond) and the final peak Kengamine offer spectacular vistas of the Japan Alps and it is also possible to see Mt Fuji from more than 160 kilometres away.

The hike can be done as a day trip by starting from Nigorigo Onsen (1800 metres elevation). An early start is advisable to ensure plenty of time to get to the top and to take advantage of the paths surrounding Go no Ike and San no Ike, or to simply relax at the Go no Ike Goya resthouse which provides hot drinks, meals, snacks and alcohol at very reasonable prices and is run by a very friendly and informative bunch. Go no Ike Goya gets a bad write up in the “Hiking in Japan” guidebook, which I found to be completely unwarranted. I would certainly stay there if I were to do the hike over two days.

Public transport is available to Nigorigo Onsen, where there are a few options for accommodation from pricey upmarket ryokan to the simple youth hostel. Buses are available from Hida Osaka station, which can be reached via JR train from Takayama (80 minutes direct). Check hyperdia.com for transport options and train times.

The Hike

One of the best points about starting from the Nigorigo Onsen, apart from the relative lack of tourist crowds, is the numbered points along the path. The numbers are clearly marked and not only give you an excellent sense of how far you are along the path, but also provide detail such as suggested times it would take to the next key point. From the first temple at the start of the path to the Go No Ike Goya there are 42 numbered signposts, and to the summit of Kengamine there are 62 in total.

After leaving the temple and following the Nigorigo river up past a waterfall

through a canopied forest of cedar and white birch

the path opens out to a open clearing with a symbolic bell used by the many (followers of religion) who frequent this path as part of their belief in the sacred nature of the mountain.

From this opening, there is a clear view of the mountain range to the north, and in particular Jounen (常念) and Yarigatake (槍ヶ岳). Not far from this point the vegetation changes to juniper trees which are more adapted to the harsh weather conditions. Junipers produce a lovely waxy red acorn with a succulent red seed in every segment. Not only is this used in French cuisine and local sake brewing, but the birds like it too. I saw quite a few birds racing through the sky with the bright red acorn in their beaks.

The vegetation on Ontake is of interest to many as it is famed as a medicinal mountain with specialised species of plants that are unique to the mountain.

Ontake is still an active volcano, and the view as the path steers around the low lying juniper and up into boulders and rocks revealing a jutting peak that is distinctly volcanic in appearance. The valley formed by this peak and the peak where Go No Ike Goya sits creates a cold wind tunnel, and ice can form on the path in the early morning, even in Autumn.

The last 300 metres up to the Go No Ike is pure rubble, and very close to the edge of the cliff. It is advisable to take this section with caution. At Hida no Chojo summit, you are immediately rewarded with views over San no Ike and the spectacular view over the Alps. The ominous looking peak directly in front of Go no Ike resthouse is the Marishiten summit (摩利支天山).

Past the Go no Ike resthouse, the trail continues towards the summit via different routes. The most direct route (90 minutes) is the Sai no Kawara (サイの河原) route which starts out as a steep hike up the rocky cliff which has a 15 minute detour at the top to the summit of Marishiten at 2959m. From this peak, it is a short 10 minute descent to the valley below past Sai no Kawara Hinan Goya (河原非難小屋) and then past the dilapidated and seemingly abandoned lodge near the emerald waters of Ni No Ike and Ichi no Ike.

After passing the two lakes, there is a large torii (temple gate) where it is advisable to take a moment to catch your breath before embarking on the final and near vertical ascent to Kengamine summit (剣が峰) which might take anywhere between 10 to 35 minutes depending on your fitness. At the top there is a set of stairs which lead to the temple complex at the summit.

The top was quite crowded when I got there (the presence of the Ontake ropeway from 1570m to 2150m on one of the other trails makes the peak more accessible), with at least 50 “hikers” all taking their commemorative photos in front of the altitude marker.

There is a compass at the top with the names of all the surrounding peaks clearly marked. Mt Fuji is unmistakeably visible between two minor peaks in the distance and the view from this particular peak reinforces the impression that Mt Fuji is more beautiful from afar rather than from its peak.

For a different experience, walk behind the temple and enjoy the view from there. It is particularly interesting as you sit (or stand) on a precarious pile of rocks rising about 50m from the hissing valley below which is still quite active and gives of plumes of steam with a distinctly sulphurous smell.

After enjoying the amazing views from the top it was time to head back down for a soak in Nigorigo onsen at the base.

Iya Valley, Tokushima Prefecture, Shikoku

The drive towards Iya valley got interesting after Ikeda and the road was dotted with a mixture of the old and the new. Dilapidated and abandoned houses that seemed on their last legs stood side by side with modern sleek double storied mansions.

As we drove deeper into the valley along the river the traffic was reduced to the occasional car every 10 minutes along the windy single lane mountain road. The drive towards the Iya campground was very beautiful. From the car we had views of the emerald waters of the Iya river flowing over boulders below while on either side of the road, the mountains rose in near vertical formation and were covered in early morning mist, shrouding the whole experience in a mystical beauty. The autumn colours danced along the tops of the mountains making the valley appear as if it were blushing. The mist lifted and the sun finally came over the peaks and warmed up the hitherto frosty air making the whole valley come to life.

The beauty of the valley was soon interrupted by the inevitable encroachment of the concrete jungle and tour buses as soon as we went past the famous pissing boy statue and headed into East Iya.

As we arrived at the famous vine bridge of West Iya, the towering, grey multi-storeyed car park came into view and soon after we caught a glimpse of all the tour buses idling in the parking lot, with the hordes of tourists all rushing to cross the concrete bridge to get to the entrance of the vine bridge. (What a paradox that is!)

There is a beautiful waterfall 200m down the road from the vine bridge but the whole experience is stained by all the cigarette butts and other tourist trash lying around the area. We got out of the area as fast as our little hire car could take us.

As we drove deeper into the valley and towards Oku Iya, there was the inevitable road construction going on. Every small mountain road in Japan has a team of construction workers doing what appears to be quite unnecessary road works. In this case, the sight of gravel filled dams that are testament to government waste in Japan nearly made our eyes water. Iya is a spectacular place with amazing natural beauty, but years of bureaucratic bungles are bringing it to the brink of destruction in some areas.

Once we continued even further into the valley,we got a sense of the natural beauty again. However, there really are a lot of dilapidated houses on this particular stretch of road. It is not quite a ghost town, but the sense of decay and depopulation permeates the hamlets dotted along the road echoing the fact that Japan really is an ageing island.

We saw a remarkably sad symbol of nostalgia for the way things used to be when we came across a household that had created a whole mini village of stuffed life size people in their rice field. They had created a busy village vibe in their hamlet once again. The rice field was in the process of being tended by an farming “woman”, a “couple” worked together to put the harvested rice out to dry, a “handyman” worked to repair the roof, “teenagers” talked to an “elderly woman” at the “bus stop”. It had the sense of a ghost town only it was much sadder.

Once, the Iya valley like many places in rural Japan, bustled with life and families. All that is left are the desolate houses and myriad of dams and other unnecessary infrastructure. No wonder the children leave, when their once proud and beautiful river becomes a concreted ditch they realise they might as well live in the concrete city where there are more opportunities with similar views.

It was refreshing then to come across the double vine bridges of Oku Iya (奥祖谷二重かずら橋) which are a lot less touristy and due to their remoteness, less crowded as the tour buses rarely venture this far into the valley.

The entry fee is 500yen which allows unlimited crossings on either of the two bridges (one is male and one is female, the difference being size) and also the yaen which is a cargo pulley cage for ferrying people and goods across the river.

The autumn colours were shining into the rushing river, and we enjoyed the sway of the vine bridge across. The fact that the vines had steel reinforcing didn’t change our experience or sense of the tradition at all.

The added bonus with the ‘Yane’, which was used to transport heavy goods across the river in days gone by was really fun. It is now a simple ride where you sit inside and pull yourself across.

The experience was enjoyable, wholesome, good fun minus the crowds, but don’t wait to visit! At the time of writing, the Oku Iya was building a brand new ticket office and some facilities, and the company had recently completed a carpark area large enough for a tour bus. It won’t be long and this too will succumb to the tourist infestation.

Overall, I enjoyed the experience in the Iya Valley for the rich memories of extravagantly beautiful landscapes, however it is a complicated affair, and unless the Japanese government and the Iya valley residents choose to manage their resources better, it will soon have next to no pockets of beauty left to treasure.

The Namahage of the Oga Penninsula, Akita

The Oga Peninsula has a festival on New Year’s Eve it would like to share with you. As you drive into the peninsula area you will come across two giant demonic statues. These are giant ‘Namahage’ and are the Oga Pen’s very own ‘Hello Kitty’. So ubiquitous are these creatures, that even if you go into the post office to do a transaction, the postal workers will explain to you what the tradition entails.

For the uninitiated, the tradition involves all the children in the area. Every New Year’s Eve, village men dress up in demonic Namahage masks and costumes, and run around to the homes of their neighbours looking for children to steal.

“Where are the crying, the naughty, the unruly little children?” asks the village men, dressed up as scary Namahage.

The parents are required to point out the children of the house, and the Namahage pick up the children and head out the door, convincing the children that they are to be stolen, and perhaps eaten.

Only when the children really think their fate is sealed, do their parents intervene and say:

“Actually, the children are really good! They don’t cry and they are well behaved. They are good little children.”

Upon hearing this, the Namahage leave the children alone. The children realise that they are good children, and they also know that if they are bad, they will be stolen and perhaps eaten by the Namahage.

Shirahone Onsen - Awa No Yu, Nagano

Entry: 800 yen or 1000 yen with a towel

Hours: 10am to 2pm

Phone: 0263932101（7:00～22:00）

Address: 〒390-1515 長野県松本市安曇白骨温泉

Sauna: No

Mixed bathing: Yes, with segregated facilities and additional baths
http://www.awanoyu-ryokan.com/

Shirahone Onsen is an onsen town located between Takayama and Matsumoto, high in the North Japan Alps accessed via highway 158, an iconic road for most Japanese motorists.

Access is by car from either town or by bus from either station, although bus access might be very limited in the off season.

Awanoyu is one of the more famous onsen within the highly rated onsen village Shirahone.

The waters have a high calcium and magnesium content which makes for extremely white water. Visibility under the water is limited to about 15 cms after which everything disappears into milky whiteness.

The big outdoor bath is surrounded by a large garden, and entry is via an old and original wooden bathing pavilion. The design of the pavilion is quite good, with steps leading down to the water within the buiding so that by the time one emerges into the large outdoor mixed bath, the milky water is already covering the essentials. As this onsen has the potential to be quite crowded in the high season, this is a welcome and thoughtful design feature, although anyone over 6ft will have to use a towel for modesty when walking into and around in the bath.

There are three pipes pumping water feeding the bath from 100 metres below the surface. The wooden housing of the pipes is traditional and sympathetic to the location. Additionally the 2 metre drop provides a great massage from within the bath.

The water, at 39.5 degrees is not as hot as many onsen we have visited, which means that one can spend longer in the water without needing to cool off. If you are seeking a hotter bath, there are hot baths inside the segregated bathhouses, at about 42.5 degrees.

There are also segregated outdoor baths. These are lovely little peaceful baths although not quite as picturesque as the great outdoor bath.

Ishizuchi San, Ehime

Ishizuchi San is the tallest mountain on Shikoku island at 1982 metres, and a great adventurous hike with exciting features like steel chains that lead up to the peak. Ishizuchi San has the honour of being one of Japan's 7 most holy mountains making it a popular pilgrim destination. The views from the top are fantastic reaching out into the ocean and across to the surrounding mountain ranges that have incredibly steep cliffs.

You wouldn't expect such an exciting adventure from the way this hike begins. A cable car ropeway takes you up 800metres of very sheer mountain face, over canopies of cedar.
http://www.ishizuchi.com/
Tel: 0897-59-0031
〒793-0215　愛媛県西条市西之川下谷甲81番地
Parking 500 Yen
Ropeway 1900 Yen return
The view above from the cable car

The cable car drops you off at 1450 metres where the Joujusha Temple complex marks the beginning of the path. A word of advice to those thinking of skipping the steep price of the ropeway and climbing the incredibly steep 800 metre ascent to the Joujusha Temple - The path is indiscernible and dangerous and it is very easy to become lost. There are countless fallen trees and obstacles. It is not advisable to attempt this course.

The ropeway opened at 8.45 am on the day we climbed, despite their web page suggesting they start business at 9.30am. What is certain is that the last ride back is at 6pm and that it runs every 20 minutes all day. It is a great journey from the bottom of the valley with a view across to the neighbouring mountain to give you a real sense of how fast and high you are travelling.

From the Joujusha Temple complex you will find a traditional shrine gate and the hike descends down for about 15 minutes before flattening out and reaching a second temple gate. After an enjoyable flat walk that winds its way through a variety of trees from Hinoki to Cedar and Cypress (all clearly labelled) you will reach an area named Hatchōzaka (八丁坂) from where you will see a peak off to the right.

Many people become confused when they see the chains here, leading up the cliff face. After such a relatively easy walk, they think they've made it to the top in record time. In fact, they have reached Maejya Ga Mori.

It is not necessary to climb this peak, however, the view from the top of this 74 metre climb over slippery rocks using the iron chains to pull yourself up makes it worthwhile - the views over the valleys and the surrounding peaks is wonderful, and the cliff face of Ishizuchi San is clearly visible. There is a small shrine here and this first peak gives you a good sense of what is to come when climbing the final peaks if you choose to take the iron chain path.

Above: The optional peak with chains, have a close look and you will see them at the top

Those that don't take the first peak, there is a path leading down around its base, and the two paths merge into one once more.

A little further along the track, you will come to the first set of chains that take you to the peak of the mountain. (Ichi No Kusari) This first set is 33 metres in length.

Further along you will come to a small hut (Ni No Kusari Goya) and the second red temple gate that denotes the final ascent to the peak. This is where the fun really starts. The second set of chains takes you up 65 metres of vertical cliff face, from which point there is an option to exit the chain route and join those who are climbing the steep staircase instead.
A graph representing the hike in distance and altitude

For those who continue on the chain path, there is another 68 metres of chain to the temple at the peak.

However, the fun doesn't stop there. The actual summit of Ichizuchi San is only reached by crossing the ridge of rock that leads up to the tiny shrine and sign for the summit. With a sheer drop on one side, and steeply sloped rocks to traverse, this is an exciting few minutes.

It would be unadvisable to attempt this part of the path or the chains in the rain or adverse weather conditions. Ishizuchi has claimed lives in the past, and is well known for having highly changeable weather conditions.

Bus information
http://www.ishizuchi.com/access/index.html

JR伊予西条駅 (JR Iyo Saijo) →IshizuchiRopeway		IshizuchiRopeway→ JR伊予西条駅 (JR Iyo Saijo)
Depart	Arrival	Depart	Arrival
07:43	08:37	※06:56	07:50
10:23	11:17	09:12	10:06
13:33	14:27	12:02	12:56
16:13	17:07	15:17	16:11
-	-	17:22	18:16

Tsurugi San, Tokushima, Shikoku

Mt Tsurugi (not to be confused with mountains of the same name in Toyama and Hokkaido prefectures) is a mountain located in the Tsurugi Quasi National Park in Tokushima prefecture in Shikoku and is best reached through the scenic Iya Valley. With beautiful trees and vast views, it is a wonderful day hike at any time of the year although it might get crowded during the skii season.

There is a very limited bus service going from Ikeda towards Tsurigi although this is one of those hikes that would easily descend into a nightmare day if you rely on public transport. Highly recommend having your own means of transport to get to the base.

Head towards Tsurugi from any of the four capitals in Shikoku and Route 438 and Route 439 will then connect directly into East Iya from where the road is well signposted towards Tsurugi where the trails start at the second parking lot at Minokoshi (みの越).

The Climb
There are a number of courses to reach the peak which at 1955 metres is the second highest in Shikoku after Ishizuchi. For those seeking a quick hike up, there is a chair lift that takes you up from Minokoshi at 1420m to Seishima(西島) at 1750 metres for an altitude change of 330 metres.

The chair lift costs 1000 yen for a one way ticket or 1900 return.
http://www9.ocn.ne.jp/~turugi/
〒779-4101徳島県美馬郡つるぎ町貞光字西山35-1
Tel　0883-62-2772

For those who would prefer to hike from the base, it is suggested that the path should take 60 minutes to the top of the ropeway, however with good fitness it can be completed in considerably less time, about the same time it takes the chairlift to get up if your legs are up for the thrill. The whole course is a very well marked track utilised regularly by pilgrims on the 88 temple path.

The trail head begins up the stairs at the temple, which is located slightly down the road from the chair lift ticket box past the tourist shops on either side of the street. If you are facing the temple, you will see to the right the typical temple gate that denotes the start of the trail.

Once you reach the chair lift station there is a large map outlining three possible courses to the summit. There three courses to the peak vary in length- below you will find the times as suggested which we found to be quite generous.

Short course (Left hand side on the map) - 900 metres (suggested time 45 minutes)
Mid course - (Mid point on the map)- 1200 metres (suggested time 60 minutes, it has more steep sections)
Long Course - (Right hand side on the map)- 1980 metres (suggested time 80 minutes)

At the half way point on the short course there is a 700 metre detour towards a temple complex which is popular with pilgrims .

On the longer course there is a simple shrine about halfway up that is popular older hikers as it next to a spring that has been named as one of the top 100 water sources in Japan. Best to give it a pass to avoid getting disappointed, the actual source is a mere trickle with a lot of tourists having their photos taken with the information board in the background.

As you might expect with such a short hike and easy accessibility, there are many people on the paths. However mid week when we visited, it was still pleasant and possible to walk without running into too many other groups of people too often.

Despite the name Tsurugi (which means sword), the peak of Tsurugi is actually a rounded plain. Legend has it that the warriors of the Heike clan used it for training their horses in preparation for battle and hence the name Heike no Baba (平家の馬場) which literally means "horsegrounds of the Heike"

The peak provides a wonderful view across to the neighbouring area of Ichi No Mori and Miune Mountain, both of which can readily be reached with an early start for those looking for a longer hike. On a good day the rugged Kengamine peak of Ishizuchi is just visible in the distance.

It is a little strange to see large radio towers as you walk up to the top of Tsurugi, but the excellent views do help you to quickly forget about all of that.

We were lucky enough to visit during Autumn when nature was putting on a spectacular show of colour, and it was truly spectacular.

Nigorigo Onsen

Nestled at the base of the wonderful hike to the peak of Ontake San, and overlooking dense mountain forest, Nigorigo is simple and delightful.

All amenities in this onsen are rustic in their appeal, from the open air showers under the trees, to the simple shack like changing room.

The onsen takes its name from the Japanese word "Nigori" which means "Cloudy water", stemming from the fact that the onsen water contains millions of tiny volcanic particles ranging in colour from green to gray and yellow.

The water is quite hot at the entry point and cools towards the mountain side of the onsen, which allows you to find your perfect temperature.

This onsen would be perfect for viewing the autumn colours but even without such splendour it is a very welcoming and relaxing onsen.

Taro San, Ueda City, Nagano

Taro San is a about 4 ½ hour hike from JR Ueda station. Entry is via Yama Guchi street.

Yama Guchi street can be reached by going straight up the main street from the station and up to the highway, then turning right and continuing until you see the supermarket. At Yama Guchi street entry on one side of the road is a supermarket, and on the other side is an outdoor equipment shop.

The signpost for the mountain trail is at the top of the Yama Guchi street, and then the trail head is down the road to the left, and then just round the bend on the left hand side.

Taro san is a steep climb up to the 1164 metre top, and has many little shrines along the way that are well tended and add to the appeal of the mountain.

The track is well maintained and clearly marked. When you reach the top you are rewarded with a lovely view of the Japanese Alps, in layers of blue on blue reminiscent of an asian watercolour painting, and on a clear day Mt Fuji can be seen in the distance, towering as it does over all the other peaks in this part of Japan.

There is a large temple at the mountain summit. The age of the original temple building is unknown but the current building was constructed in the Meiji era.

With plenty of alpine forest trees and lots of bird life, this is a great short hike and a good side trip when visiting Bessho Onsen.

Tsuru no Yu Onsen, Akita

Tsuru no Yu 鶴の湯 (秋田県)
仙北郡田沢湖町田沢字先達沢国有林50　
Entry: 500 yen
Telephone:0187-46-2139
Open: 10am to 3pm
http://www.tsurunoyu.com/english.html

Tsuru no Yu in Akita prefecture is an onsen well worth a visit.
Its traditional bathhouses, still standing after hundreds of years, and the perfect location beside a river hidden in the Nyutou Onsen region makes it a worthwhile escape.

There are many bathing options within the complex.
Pictured above, the mixed bathing onsen

For women, there are two outside baths, each with their own separate bathhouse with an internal bath as well. Men have the same facilities, and then there is the large mixed bathing pool.


The outdoor women's only onsen

The women's bath inside the bathhouse area

The second women's only onsen


The water is perfectly milky white, with almost zero visibility. Unlike most onsen in Japan, it is not impolite for women to wear a towel while entering or in the communal bath. The men follow the usual tradition of placing their towels on their heads, but many women wore towels for modesty.

Being one of Japan's top ten onsen, there is a distinct possibility that Tsuru no Yu could get crowded. I recommend going in the off-peak season or mid week when you can enjoy the kind of tranquility that we experienced. An early arrival will ensure you get some quiet time before the inevitable busload of tourists arrives.
Pictured above: The rustic shower, still using the same mechanism as hundreds of years ago

Tsuru no Yu is one of the oldest onsen in the Nyutou Onseko in Akita prefecture, dating back as far as 1638, and in operation as a public facility since 1688.

Legend has it that a local hunter saw a crane healing it's wounds in the white water baths, and since that time it became known as the crane bath or "Tsuru no Yu". There is a fertility shrine in the women's only bath, which is said to assist women in all things fertile.

The attached ryokan which has been operational for over 1200 years is authentic and beautiful with lovely old style rooms that provide privacy and also a sense of harmony with the natural environment.

The main building for the ryokan.