Climbing Haguro san (羽黒山)
Haguro san is the first mountain in a series of three mountains named “Dewa Sanzan”. Each mountain represents a spiritual path both physically through ritual climbing and metaphysically through meditation and prayer.
Prince Hachiko established the three mountains as Buddhist religious centres of the Shugendo sect of Buddhism about 1400 years ago, believing that by throwing away all worldy connections and immersing themselves in nature ‘Yamabushi” (mountain monks) would become one with universal truth. To this day, mountain monks perform ceremonies and live as one with nature to promote harmony and even world peace.
For yamabushi and laypeople alike, climbing Dewa sanzan is a good way of improving the mind and body.
Haguro San represents birth, and the 2446 stone steps designated as Japanese national treasures lead up the mountain through giant cedar trees some of which are more than 300 years old and can grow to over 50m in height. The path leads past a spectacular 5 tiered pagoda from the 14th century that nestles into the mountain’s base.
It took 13 years to construct the steps into the mountainside in 1648, and it takes a little over an hour to walk up the steep gradient of slick stone. There are many small Shinto shrines along the way with intricately carved mythological beasts guarding the spirit homes, so short breaks are plenty along the way. I enjoyed trying to figure out what the Shinto shrine Kanji meant with my limited reading vocabulary.
The steps are small and steep, and a few times I felt giddy looking down them in the gentle rain. They have been worn smooth through years of use so at times it was necessary carefully place my feet to avoid slipping.
Despite a fresh wind and slight rain, it was an enjoyable walk. Views across rice paddies and through alpine forest can be seen from the Shinto shrines. At the summit a giant red tori (temple gate) towers over the entrance to the temple grounds where a variety of temples and the yamabushi that live in them receive worshippers and once a year ring the giant 3.14 iron shoro bell, inscribed with the year 1275.
The Dewa Sanzan Jinja Shrine (出羽三山神社) is located at the summit of Mt Haguro as it is the only one of the three mountains that is accessible in the winter, with the other 2 being blanketed in snow.
We couldn’t resist the lure of free tea after the windy and wet climb, and the small souvenir shop near the bus station was doing a fast trade in business as tourists scranbled to get out of the wet and windy conditions. The whole shop was full of tasty treats that were free to try, and we ended up buying some sweets and some delicious flower tea from the local region.
Rather than walk back down the slippery stairs we decided instead to take the bus back down to Rashaad’s home.
After dinner we visited the local hot spring facility “Ideyu-no-sato” commonly known as Yupoka.
Unlike most hot springs, this hot spring has a decidedly local feel, with more of a sento vibe than a resort. On entering the usual shoe lockers abound, albeit larger than usual to fit wet overcoats and the like which is very practical considering how often it snows in the region.
A ticket machine sits beside counter at the entrance to the onsen. Confusingly, you don’t buy the entrance ticket from the person behind the counter, rather you are directed to the machine where you buy the ticket and then hand it to the attendant at the counter. The entrance fee was 380 yen each.
Inside, the bath house is spacious and the facilities are excellent. Shampoo and body wash is supplied, and there is a sauna with a television, a cold bath and a hot bath. There is also a wonderful outside bath constructed from volcanic rocks. Sitting spots can be found all around the perimeter, with ledges at a variety of heights.
I started at the perimeter and found the bath warm and easy to slip into. After a minute or relaxing and enjoying the night sky, I waded over the 2.5 metres to the other side of the bath. It was a bit warmer, and I found that the closer to the small waterfall where the source water entered the bath, the warmer the water became. Even though the season has changed to autumn, I could still hear the sound of small summer beetles that make for a distinctly summer audioscape in Japan.
I lay back and relaxed, and let all the tension of the travels and adventures fall away.
I finished the experience at Yupoka with a 100 yen, 10 minute relaxation treat in a massage chair. I felt wonderful as I left and my skin felt soft from the minerals in the water. We headed home, reinvigorated happy, and ready for the next day’s hike.
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